Woke up at 5 and tried my best to stretch my back. It had been hurting for the past month. Pretty sure it’s my sciatica. It’s a pretty acute pain in my left hip/lower back.
Went and ate breakfast and met Mayo the surf guide. After we finished eating, we hopped in the car and headed towards Playa Escondida. It was a pretty cool drive on dirt roads through forest and towns.
When by the time we made it to the beach, the sun had just risen and the surf was firing! Off shore winds and overhead barrels! This being my first day there I was a little bit intimidated. I was sore and had been traveling all day the day before, but Dan seemed to feel comfortable with it so I figured… charge it! Mayo decided to hang on the beach and take pictures and Dan had to put on sunscreen so I paddled out solo with Dan not too far behind.
It was a pretty long paddle out to the end of the point where there were 3 guys from Puerto Escondido (Which can be a big heavy wave. Look it up. I dare you). One of them broke his board as I was paddling out. Regardless, they were making the takeoff look easy. Trust me it wasn’t!
Once I was out there, the water was moving a bunch so I had to keep paddling to stay in position. The position was basically stay as close to the rocks as possible without hitting them and oh ya, dodge the huge rock on the inside or bail before you hit it.
I stayed a little further out on the lip than the other guys and waited for the set waves to roll through. This way I could take off a little further away from the rocks. In the event that I ate it on the takeoff, I wouldn’t have to worry that much about breaking my board or myself.
I caught a couple big set waves and got some turns in. I wasn’t really ready for that kind of speed. It’s been pretty small in the US for the past couple months comparatively. I started to get more confidence and adrenaline as time went on.
I caught a pretty sweet wave that I took almost all the way in. There was a guy in the water taking pictures that I noticed just before I went over him. I wonder if he got a good shot of it. I never got a chance to ask him if he did, despite talking to him for a little bit after that wave. Here’s what it looked like from Mayo’s POV: